We have been wanting to go on an overnight hiking adventure with the kids and donkeys for a long time; and at last we did it!
In these strange ‘Covid’ times, we feel very lucky to be living our rural life in the mountains. Our home, La Taillede, is just outside the village of Corsavy in the Pyrenees Orientales region of SW France. However, like everyone, we have been missing having new experiences and adventures. Currently we are only permitted to go within 10 kms of home, and although the hike is 12 kms, as the bird flies we live less than 10kms from our destination. We were therefore not breaking the lockdown rules!
Matt and I recently checked out the route to the mountain refuge, La Devesa (although when we went, it was in a massive cloud so no view at all!). We saw that the tracks are donkey navigable (ie. no deep rivers to cross or very rocky paths to clamber over). Perfect!
The weather was looking pretty good for the weekend, but as we were sleeping at 1677 metres altitude, and the tramontane wind was still blowing, I borrowed 2 coats for the donkeys so they didn’t get too cold overnight.
We made sure we had plenty of warm clothes and winter sleeping bags. As of course we had our 2 dogs with us too (Rocco and Tai), we needed to take food for them and plenty of nourishing mountain food for us all.
Matt and I also carried big rucksacks to not overload the donkeys.
Leaving La Taillede
We finally set off from La Taillede (950 metres altitude) at 11.15 on Saturday April 17th. We hadn’t gone into too much detail with the kids as to how hard the walk up there would be, otherwise they would never have come! It’s almost all uphill all the way there!
30 minutes after departure and still on La Taillede land, we stopped for our first rest and snack! Maurice was hoping to share our daughter, Olea’s apple. It paid off, he got the core!
Getting tired!
The kids were brilliant; plenty of ‘How much longer?’ and ‘Are we nearly there yet?’ but they carried on, chatting constantly! We stopped whenever they needed to; which was quite often!
Mountain Matt
Every stop is a chance to graze.
We trusted Martin to be the carrier of the most precious cargo; the wine! He is the calmest donkey; nothing really makes him jump; so we thought the bottle of wine was safe with him!
After 3 and a half hours, we reached Col de L’Estagnol, which is an exposed plain, high up at 1667 metres altitude. We had done most of the climb and were almost there. We felt the full force of the cold tramontane wind, which energised us all to get to the refuge (and get the fire lit!).
We could see our destination; The refuge La Devesa, perched in the most incredible spot, overlooking the beautiful Haut Vallespir. The kids believed us now, we really were almost there!
Last push up to the refuge
4 hours after departure, we arrived and unpacked all the kit. Matt got the kettle on and everyone had a well deserved rest.
Olea needed a power nap to get her energy back, so after her hot chocolate, she snuggled down in the warm and cosy refuge while we collected wood and took care of the animals. Then she was up again, enjoying the sunset from the roof; and we opened the wine!
Hoorah!
Cheers!
Mountain sunset
We had a lovely candle lit evening, ate lots of simple food cooked on the wood burning stove, then played ‘Uno.’ We were early to bed; The dogs were comfortable sleeping on the donkeys saddle pads. Our son, Simi fell off his top bunk bed onto Rocco dog, who couldn’t decide if he wanted to be inside with kids falling on him, or outside in the freezing cold howling gale all night! All in all, we slept pretty well!
The donkeys weren’t keen on wearing a coat to begin with as they never have needed to with their plush accommodation at La Taillede! I am so glad I borrowed them because the temperature over night dropped so much the stream froze, and the tramontane wind really picked up. They are hardy animals though, and not stupid. They stood out of the wind and were cosy in their coats. It didn’t stop me worrying overnight when I heard the wind howl!
Donkeys cosy in their borrowed rugs
We woke up early to check on the donkeys, get the fire lit for tea and more hot chocolate, then made porridge for breakfast. The kids spent the morning finding icicles and exploring. It was a beautiful, sunny day and the tramontane died down.
The view is just incredible from up there.
Braving the cold in pyjamas for a morning pee!
Hours of fun
Frozen stream
After a big brunch, we packed up, making sure we left no mess or rubbish. In the refuge, we left plenty of firewood, some food in the cupboard, some bowls, mugs and a bottle opener (we couldn’t believe there wasn’t a bottle opener in a French refuge!). These refuges can be a life saver for anyone caught up the mountain when the weather turns, so it’s important to leave at least the bare necessities for the next person. Of course, respect for the environment is crucial and you should take all your rubbish with you.
Matt looking back at Mount Canigou on the descent…
The trip home was down hill all the way; with a much lighter load! The donkeys were trying to trot down the mountain!
We were happy to get home to a hot bath, and later on, Matt and I had a fabulous sauna, followed by a long sleep.
Looking at the positives of our accommodation at La Taillede being closed due to lockdown; As much as we love our place, we have been able to leave the property more often and enjoy adventures like this on our doorstep (and have full use of the sauna & hot tubs!). It gives us the time to explore the places to send our guests to!
What and amazing weekend in an incredibly beautiful part of the world!
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